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本帖最后由 leo_home 于 2013-7-6 03:52 编辑
原貼被刪除，現重發：
December 1997 Roostertail
MONO MANIA BY JOHN FINCH
1997年12月Roostertail
單體船狂熱
作者：John Finch
As Mono Director, it is my job to foster the growth of the class. To accomplish this goal, I will be clarifying design criteria and even letting out some of the secrets that put the top drivers in the winner's circle. I can't do it all in one article, so stay tuned throughout the year in this section of the newsletter. As you know, if you have been reading your newsletters, the Rule Book section on Mono hull classifications has been cleaned up a bit in an attempt to better define a Mono hull. By definition, a Mono hull is a boat that has a continuous wetted surface while operating at racing speed. This means that it cannot have steps, sponsons, or any other appendage that keeps the model from having one continuous wetted surface. This includes the bottom profile when the boat banks to negotiate a turn. I know that the real boats have steps and wings, but IMPBA does not recognize these as legal features in the Mono class. There are modelers that feel threatened by these advancements, so these changes have yet to take place in IMPBA.
作為單體船的總裁，推動這個類別是我的職責，要達到這個目標，我將會澄清設計概念，甚至把優勝者群的秘密說出來，我不能在一編文章裡完成一切，所以請全年保持著調整快訊的這一段落。如果你有閱讀快訊，正如你知道，規則手冊裡對單體船的定義作了一點清理，試圖更清晰定義一條單體船，根據定義，一條單體船工作於競賽速度下，擁有一個連續的濕水面，這表示不允許有階、舷側突出的（浮體），或任何附加物阻礙模型擁有一個連續的濕水面，這包括轉彎時底部觸水面的輪廓，我知道真船是有階及翼的，但IMPBA認為這些特徵違反單體船定義，有運動員對這些進步的設計感到恐懼，所以需侍IMPBA改變其觀念。
To be successful in the Mono class it helps to have an understanding of Mono hull design in it's purest state. By that I mean the understanding of weight, balance, aerodynamic and hydrodynamic drag, lifting area, planing area, and power to weight ratios. You see, a pure Mono is far more difficult to tune for all out potential than a three point Hydro. The key word is potential! When it comes to a beginner or intermediate level model the Mono is by far the easier to handle and trim than the Hydro. But again, that is because we have accepted the Mono as a heavy sluggish vehicle with no hope of going extremely fast.
要在單體級別得到成功，從最純正的狀況明白單體船的設計是有幫助的，在這裡我的意思是，明白重量、平衡、空氣動力學及流體力學阻力、提升面、滑行面及功率重量比例，
你可以看到，一條純單體船要調至發揮其所有潛力，比起調三點式難得多，關鍵字是潛力，但對於初階及中階玩家，單體船遠比多點式易控制及調整，但再一次聲明，這是因為我們已經接受，單體船是一個又重又遲鈍的船體，沒期望它會行得極快。
On the other hand, as a modeler who has two Mono hulls that consistently run over 70 MPH, I know that we can do better. The problem with a 70 MPH Mono is that it wont finish a single heat in a race with five other models cranking up the wakes. So, it is a compromice of stability and speed that we must make as we put together a Mono hull that goes fast but still finishes races. In todays heat racing scene, a 50 MPH Mono is capable of winning races in all four engine classes. The fact is that most Mono hulls clocked at big events are only running 45 to 48 MPH. They look like they are going faster, but that is only because they are not trimmed properly. The boats that look slower, because they are trimmed properly, are the ones that are going faster and winning the races. So, the first subject to be covered in this series will be that of running hardware on the boat and how it affects the trimming of the model.
另一方面，有一玩家有兩條單體船在時速70英里以上穩跑，我知道我們能做得更好，問題是，當同時有另外5條船在搞波浪時，時速70英里的單體船無法完成一輪賽事，所以在速度與穩定度之間必須作出妥協，我們放幾條單體船一起航行，需要快但仍然能完成賽事。在今天的多回合賽事，在四個發動機級別，一條時速50英里（80公里）的單體船有能力勝出，因為事實上大部份大賽裡的單體船，只是航行於時速45至48英里，它們看起來像不只這個速度，那是因為它們沒被調整好，一條調整好的船，看起來行得慢，其實是行得更快，並會在賽事中勝出，所以在這系列課題中，第一個要讀的是船的硬件，及它如果影響船的調整。
HARDWARE SETUP
硬件安裝
Deep Vee models are the best type of Mono for heat racing. They handle traffic and rough water conditions very well. Vee angles ranging from 19 degrees to 23 degrees seem to work best for heat racing. Shallow vee boats are faster on calm water and deeper vbee boats work best in rough water. If a model is designed well, it will work with almost any hardware setup. If a model is lacking in some areas, you can sometimes help the handling of the model by changing the hardware setup. Today I will cover trim tabs.
深V船是單體船中，最適合多回合賽事的船體，它們應付交通及在巨浪中表現很好，看來在多回合賽事，V角度由19至23度表現最好，在風浪細的水面，淺V角度的船會較快，在大風浪的水面，較深V角度的船表現最好，如果一個模型是設計優良的話，幾乎任何硬件都合用，如果一個模型在某方面不足，有些時候，你可以透過改變硬件安裝去改良它，今天我會談壓水板。
TRIM TABS
壓水板
Trim tabs are those plates at the transom that are used to adjust the ride angle of the model. Usually, they are mounted on the transom about an inch up from the keel to as far out as to the chine line of the model. The chine line is the corner where the bottom of the hull meets the side of the hull. The chine line extends from the transom (back of boat) to the bow (front of boat). The tabs are usually split into two adjustable plates on each side of the hull which makes two separate adjustable tabs on each side of the model.
壓水板是一些安裝在船尾的片狀物，用以調整模型的升角（攻角），通常都是安裝在龍骨上方一英寸，至到最遠到達CHINE線，CHINE線是船底與船邊交匯角形成的線，CHINE線由船尾延伸至船頭，壓水板通常被分割成兩塊可調的片，左右各兩塊，每邊可作兩個分開的調整，
INSIDE TABS
內壓水板
The innermost tabs are adjusted up and down to direct the bow of the boat either up or down. Adjusting the tabs downward will push the bow of the boat down as water leaving the trailing edge of the tabs causes lift at the transom, thus pushing down the bow. Raising the trailing edge of the tabs will reduce the lift at the transom and allow the bow to run lighter on the water. If the boat leans to the right because of engine torque, which it most probably will, the right or starboard tab is adjusted downward at the inside trailing edge, (edge closest to the prop), to shoot water downward off the right hand tab, which in turn will lifts the right side of the model. Keep in mind that lowering the right tab will not only lift the right side of the model, but also cause the bow to be pushed down as well. If the boat is leaning to the right and also running very wet, it would be better to raise the left inside tab (tab closest to the prop on the left side of the boat). So, you are adjusting two things when you adjust the inside tabs: the hull attitude bow to stern and the ride left to right. Most hulls that are set up properly for heat racing are adjusted with the left tab slightly down and the right tab about 1/16 of an inch deeper than the left tab.
內壓水板可作上下調整，以調整船頭之升或降，把內壓水板調低會壓低船頭，因為離開內壓水板的水把船尾提升，所以會壓低船頭，升高內壓水板會減少船尾的提升，讓船頭在更輕盈的在水上航行，在大多數情況下，都會因為發動機的扭力，使船右邊或右舷(STARBOARD)斜向下，右邊或右舷內壓水板需要調向下，把水從右邊內壓水板射向下，結果是把船的右邊升高，需注意，調低右壓水板，不單只會提升船右邊，還會把船頭壓低，如果船斜向右邊，並且已經有一個很大的觸水面，調高左邊內壓水板會更好（左邊最接螺旋槳的壓水板），所以當你調整內壓水板，你在調整兩個高度：頭尾高度，左右高度，大部份用於多回合賽事的船，都把左邊內壓水板調低小許，右邊內壓水板比左邊低1/16英寸。
OUTSIDE TABS
外壓水板
The outer tabs, close to the chine line, are used primarily for adjusting the ride thru the comers. The right outermost tab adjusts the ride for right hand turns and the left outermost tab adjusts left hand turns. If they are flat with the hull, the boat will turn a predetermined radius. If they are pushed downward, the model will turn a tighter corner 'because the water shooting off the tab lifts that corner of the hull at the transom, which in turn causes the keel at the bow to be forced into the water with more authority. You see, a Mono slides as it turns, and if the bow digs in, the boat turns sharper. If you raise the outside tab, the boat will become less sensitive in the corners as the bow rides lighter on the water and slides through the turn. Most models I have worked with are too sensitive in the corners, so the outside tabs have to be raised considerably to get good linear turns out of the model. Some boats work better without an outside tab, and some models, like the Seaducer, don't use tabs at all. The Seaducer type hull does not bank hard to negotiate a turn, so the tab scenario described does not apply to it or any other Mono that stands up in the corners.
接近於CHINE線的，是外壓水板，主要是調整船轉彎時的升角，右邊最外的壓水板，調整右轉的升角，左邊最外的壓水板，調整左轉的升角，如果它們與船底形成平坦的面，船會按預定的半徑轉彎，如果它們被調低了，船轉彎會趨向較急，因為壓水板把水射向下，因而提升那邊船尾的角，即是使船頭部份龍骨壓入水中而獲得更大控制力，如果船頭浸入水，你會見到一條單體船在轉彎時外滑，船轉彎會較急，如果你把外壓水板調高，船的轉彎敏感度會降低，因為轉彎時船頭較輕盈升離水面，大部份我用過的船，對轉彎都較敏感，所以外壓水板需要調升至相當高，使船獲得一個線性的轉彎，有些船裝了壓水板會較好，另外有些船不需要，例如Seaducer，Seaducer類的船在轉彎時不會緊拍著，所以這裏談論的壓水板情景不適用，或是其它在轉彎時立正的單體船。
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